That's Hanoi

Yesterday when the kickstand of my bike ran over my foot if left a small cut. Since I was at my friend who happens to be a doctor, I asked him what to do (facetiously). He then showed me his toe which has been fighting an infection, from a similar small cut, and this reminded me that in Hanoi things don't heal. So we had this big medical session, involving H2O2, Neo-something-American-named, bandaids and bandages. FOR A CUT ON MY TOE! That's Hanoi.

When I was sitting at lunch yesterday, and my friend was trying to make an appointment. "Name is David. Yes, David. D-A-V-I-D. No, a D. Yes. No. Yes. D for DOG. Yes. No. Yes. D-A-V-I-D. Ok. Yep, last name Cameron...." That's Hanoi.

When my housekeeper told me that my landlady was a VERY bad person for wanting the house to be cleaned out when I handed the keys back. That's Hanoi.

When a couple of weeks ago, I got a flat tyre on the way to work, and there were no repair shops along the way because it was too early in the morning for them to be open. And this guy stopped and took me through all these back streets to find a place that could fix my tyre. Totally took 10 minutes out of his life, which basically rescued mine. That's Hanoi.

A taxi driver who told me that since this last person I met was also Australian. I must know them. That's Hanoi.

My friend at school telling me that Hanoians call tourists big fat chickens in Vietnamese. Especially when they think they can have the person buy something from them, or that they're new in town. Of course, those words take a little while to learn in Vietnamese, but, that's Hanoi.

Being cheered on when running, being yelled at on a bike, being sworn at by some youths, being harassed by some sellers, being adored by some kids, being jeered at by some workers, being laughed at by some women for no apparent reason (maybe for the above reason?) being waited on by the best staff ever ALL within 3 hours. That's Hanoi.

Being told by a friend that you need to lie, and say you are leaving Hanoi and going home to your husband and children, as this will make the local Hanoians happy, and then you do and you feel a little bad about it. Well, until they rub your belly and grin, then you just feel annoyed! That's Hanoi.

Sitting with your neighbours who breed roosters and pretty tropical fish, drinking water and eating nuts, while they discuss life issues and you input important political debates which show off your extensive understanding of the language such as:

"In 2 days I go to Melbourne"

"Is that your friend?"

"I have one brother and one sister"

"No thanks."

When all you really want to say is: "Can you shoot that rooster because I'm sick of it waking me up at 4 am." That's Hanoi.

The end of living abroad... for a while

So I'm coming to the end of my time in Hanoi. 2 years. What an amazing experience. The friends I have met. I am here for another 4 weeks, and will spend much time collecting bits and pieces for my trip home- but am definitely getting reflective of my time here- especially after my boss advised me to write a letter of "lasts" which, he believes, helps every expat move from one place to another. I have about 20 things on my list.

This of course, doesn't include the list of 30 or so things I would like to buy before leaving Hanoi, including about 8 backpacks, cd's of relaxation music (ironic in Hanoi?), scarves, dragonflies, stamps (not the postage kind), instruments etc... now, where I find the time to do that in the next week before my things are packed up is another question!

Being here has worked me harder than I ever have in my life. I have been through ups and downs, and wanted to leave so many times (especially in that first 6 months!). I know that wherever I go next (Sth America anyone?), I will stay at for some time... I want to settle a bit.

My life here has (unsurprisingly) been so different to life at home, but as I embark on being the fittest I have ever been, I also have realised what's important in life more and more. Health. Family. Friends. There's no surprise why people have listed these things consistently as their most important aspects of life. I wish I wasn't so cliched, but I know that the only way I would be different is by finding another word that represents those three mentioned above.

Living Abroad. Trying to get perspective? It will show you what life's about. While I would try not to preach- this one's a gimme: Try it, at least once.

Completing the Trifecta

Following a long weekend here in Hanoi, I popped up (?) to China, more specifically Beijing, for a jaunt around the nations capital. Beijing was a fascinating place. In my 4 short days I was able to climb The Great Wall, visit infamous Tiananmen square, visit Mao, go to the Forbidden City, hit the downtown bars, walk around the parks, and indulge in chinese foods. Of course, living in Hanoi, this also meant indulging in a cheeseburger, as I never see the arches for like, 6 months at a time.

My first impression (and I think that's all I got, as it was such a short visit) was that Beijing was a modern city. It was not unlike Singapore to a tourist. This was interesting, as we know China is a developing country; and I saw a first-world city. I think China is the type of place that you need to spend, say 6 months, travelling around the countryside, to really get a feel for it.

Anyway, the focus on this post is to reflect on one, main event. One of the most important things that I did was finish off completing the trifecta of embalmed communist leaders. And they say some are good in the state they are for another 100 years! I know I have many more to see, but I have now been through the tombs of Ho Chi Minh, Lenin and Mao! Strange for a suburban girl from outer Melbourne! It's amazing to see the difference in the way each country presents and represents their beliefs and reverie for their leader. The white gloves that are

manhandling you through, as the guards will not touch the people with their naked hands. The proximity of the serious guard who has his bayonet posed in your direction ready to strike. The cold and darkness of some tombs, and the over-the-top flamboyance of others. And of course, the new one for me in China- the souvenier shop, right at the head of the embalmed leader. Interesting.

However, I had a fantastic time, and the part of the great wall that I was recommended (the walk from JinShanLing to Simatai) was amazing. Would definitely pop back for a visit there one day.

A weekend in Hoi An

One of the things I love most about being in Hanoi is the weekends away. Within an hour you are in a totally different ethnic area of Vietnam. This weekend I headed to Hoi An, a heritage town of tailors and daiquiris and of beaches and motos.

Anyone who has done a tour of Vietnam will no doubt have stopped overnight at Hoi An. Women would have marvelled at the tailoring techniques, men would have marvelled at the money women can spend at the tailors. For me, Hoi An is the place to go to the beach, (hopefully) see some blue skies after the Hanoi grey-ness, have a drink (and fantastic dinner) at The Mango Rooms, and while I'm in the area, have some new clothes outfitted.

This weekend I have come down with my father and step-mother, who are not as excited about the cocktails (dad being a religious-whiskey-only-drinker) and am trying to entertain them with the idea of My Son than Yaly. For a place I know so well now (been here at least 5 times in the past 2 years), and usually a place I have come with expat friends, it's difficult to think about what a tourist to Vietnam would most like to do in Hoi An. I sat down to read about this in our hotel, the awesome Palm Garden Resort, to think about this. They suggest, bike riding, jet-skiing, pottery village and of course My Son.

While planning out a day trip to My Son for them, and a half day Yaly, half-day Mango Room for me, I have to say, I have begun reflecting on my time here in Vietnam. The attention everyones pays to you even for a cheap room, the relaxing view I have aquired over things like: time, queues and changing things. Here in Hoi An, and having tourists to show around, shows me how much I've learnt about the nuances of Vietnamese life (including telling the taxi driver off for trying to rip off my parents).

Anyway- For those of you who have stumbled across this looking for advice about Hoi An, rather than my personal life (how strange :)) - here it is:

1. Yaly is the best for good quality (not cheap) tailored clothes.

2. Staying in town can be nice, and culturally rich, but if you need to chill- head to the beach resorts.

3. My Son is worth seeing if you're interested in culture.

4. Go to the market in town- like any Vietnamese market, it's an experience, and for some reason, I particularly like this one.

5. Mango Rooms. Do it. I promise you, you won't regret anything on the menu.

6. Cooking classes are definitely worth it in Vietnam, including here- you can cook a mean fish dish.

7. Try to stay more than one night- especially if you want your clothes to be good value!

Oh Vietnam... am I wishing I had more time here now??

Another Day in Hanoi (aka the day my glasses attacked me)

I haven't blogged in a while about life in Hanoi, which was my intention when I began this blog, so I thought I'd give you a run down of my Saturday here in Hanoi.

I started my morning by going to my favourite cafe in town. And it was booked out. Now, it's always been popular, but never so much as I can't find a seat!! Times, they are a'changing. I actually heard a tourist on the way up going "it's great that the latest lonely planet explains it in so much detail, because last time I was in Vietnam, I couldn't find it". Great for some maybe- but I wanted a seat! :s

My weekly spa treatment involved my hairdresser explaining that I needed colour on my roots because my hair was "no colour", which is actually something I've been saying all along. It's kind of Ash Blonde when it's freeflowing. I wonder if there's an option on any of those visa forms that says "no colour" when asked to list "hair colour".

Speaking of spa treatments. Dear god, the facial lady almost broke my nose today. I know you have to be tough with my skin, but it's also MY FACE! I think as she was about to tear the end of my nose off (perhaps not realising there is no bone- only cartilage) she may have mis-understood my "can I have a massage" to mean "can I have a Michael Jackson". This was all going on while the lady next door was instructing her "waxing specialist" how to wax (about the 5th time I've heard it, having directed twice myself).

I bought 3 pairs of prescription glasses today for 50USD. Not a bad deal, but definitely the price has gone up since I first came here. And considering the lady was adjusting it to my head and some plastic part (no idea where from, considering they are so clearly authentic Dior like the arm of the shoulder states) flicked into my eye and had my ear tearing for about 5 minutes. Awesome.

So after all this, I decided to go get a coffee at Highlands coffee just off Hoan Kiem Lake, on Hang Gai, and sat upstairs in the super cool area. Unfortunately, the pebbles on the wall actually were coming off the wall and falling and hitting me on the arm, head, leg, wherever. I thought I might've been on candid camera, but as far as I know, I wasn't, so I drank my latte and headed out.

Finally, I just got back from seeing the latest Tom Cruise "Valkyrie" movie, about 3 months after it was released, and am now depressed! Of course, nothing to do with the movie, more about the phones going off, sound going off, picture vanishing for a period of time, then, adujsting the reel so it fitted onto the screen, subtitles in the middle of the screen.. the fun of trying to see a simple movie here. And what a great genre of movie to bring your 2 to 10 year-olds too, as we found many of the vietnamese who saw it did.

And alas, the day is over. Am I spoilt? Yes indeed- not many can say they spent their Saturday's in a similar way. Now who knows what Sunday will bring, and indeed, next week, where I have organised 66 13-year-olds to go trekking in the Vietnamese jungle with myself and 5 other teachers. Well wishes appreciated.